Catalogue description

Looking closely

A two-row necklace of 150 saltwater cultured pearls, graduating from approximately 4.1 mm at the clasp to 10.4 mm at the front, each pearl individually knotted on silk. The pearls are near round to gently baroque, cream with a soft rosé orient and good lustre. The two rows are of slightly different lengths, so that they sit one inside the other when worn.

The largest pearls, at the front of both rows, measure about 9 to 10.4 mm, a generous size for an older cultured strand. Several are slightly baroque, with gentle undulations and the occasional surface mark, which the laboratory records as moderately spotted.

The rows close on an antique cluster clasp: a central pearl in a gold collet, surrounded by a border of rose-cut diamonds and two small green stones in silver collets on a gold back, with a push-in tongue and a fine gold safety chain. Rose-cut diamonds set in silver over gold are characteristic of jewellery made before the general use of platinum, and the clasp is consistent with late 19th or early 20th century work. It is probably older than the pearls, as fine clasps were often reused when necklaces were restrung or remade. The green stones are not identified by the laboratory; their colour and period suggest emeralds, but this has not been confirmed by testing.

The necklace is accompanied by a Jewellery Report from the World Gemological Institute (WGI), no. WGI9634163281, dated 14 August 2025 and verifiable online, confirming saltwater cultured pearls and five natural rose-cut diamonds, the principal stone approximately 0.10 carats (colour J–K, clarity VS2–SI1). The pearls are consistent with saltwater (akoya-type) cultured pearls of the mid-20th century; a precise date cannot be given without laboratory imaging of the nacre.

The necklace is in very good condition for its age and ready to wear. The knots are even and the silk clean; a short section of one row near the clasp shows a slightly larger knot, to be checked at its next service. The silver collets of the clasp show the light wear and slight darkening usual in silver-set antique work, and the safety chain is complete. Laid flat, it measures 27 cm from the clasp to the lowest point of the outer row, about 54 cm in all: the long end of princess length, sitting just below the collarbone. Total weight 55.61 g.

Specification

Key facts

Date
Pearls mid-20th century; clasp late 19th or early 20th century
Pearls
150 saltwater cultured pearls in two rows, approx. 4.10–10.40 mm; near round to slightly baroque; cream with orient overtone; good lustre (WGI)
Clasp
Cluster clasp: central pearl, five rose-cut natural diamonds and two small green stones (not identified) in silver on gold; gold safety chain
Principal diamond
Rose cut, approx. 0.10 ct; colour J–K; clarity VS2–SI1 (WGI)
Length
Approx. 54 cm (outer row), inner row slightly shorter; 27 cm laid flat from clasp to lowest point
Weight
55.61 g
Stringing
Knotted on silk between every pearl
Condition
Very good for its age; light wear to the silver collets of the clasp
Laboratory report
World Gemological Institute, no. WGI9634163281, 14 August 2025 (online verification at wgi-global.com)
Independent report
ConfirmArt description, condition and retail valuation report, November 2026

Research & documentation

Research report

Read the report for Two-Row Cultured Pearl Necklace with an Antique Diamond and Pearl Cluster Clasp. Its conclusions remain attributed to the named provider.

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